![]() ![]() On the bottom row was tea and lemonade, which Greg made himself and served in old milk or juice jugs. There was Mexican Coke and glass-bottled Fanta. Cold beverages were snatched from the ancient, Pepsi-branded sliding glass doors. Big plastic glasses were stacked by the dishwashing sink and ice was scooped from a deep freezer located in a back room filled with Greg’s granddaughter’s old toys and other sundry artifacts. Once you’d dropped these off at your table-there were maybe twenty seats in the place-you fetched your own drink. I preferred what Greg called Christmas, two scoops of mild red with a plop of the fiery green in the middle. ![]() After grabbing a bowl off the counter, it was over to the fridge, to scoop salsa out of two big Tupperware containers: one red, one green. Next, you opened the oven door and pulled out a warm basket of fresh, paper-thin chips. Using a wooden clothespin, you hung the ticket on a piece of twine strung up over a slow cooker full of asado de chile colorado. There, you traded holas and smiles with Maria, who was always bustling over bubbling pots of carne guisada, her arms dusted with flour from tortilla-making. That pretty much guaranteed you were gonna get burned.Īfter you jotted your order and tore it from the notepad on the counter, you took it past the bright red “EMPLOYEES ONLY” sign into a small kitchen. You could be sure that Greg would give out to you if you left off your name or the size of the burrito you wanted or, worst of all, you forgot to include your spice preference. Greg Revelez, the owner of this tiny Tex-Mex joint, was the orneriest-and to many, the most beloved-restaurateur in Andrews, my hometown in the heart of the Permian Basin oil patch. This was how I learned to scribble mine: reg. This story is a part of Texas Monthly’s Taco Week, a series dedicated to proving Texas is center of the taco universe.Īt La Morena, you wrote your own order. ![]()
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